Victorian Undergarments: Surprise corset!

So after sewing the chemise and drawers I wanted to start on a bustle to go under my petticoats.
So I grabbed a bought victorianish corset I had and dressed myself in the chemise, drawers and corset. However I quickly found out why I haven't worn that corset that much. It's too high and big and gives me the dreaded Corset Ridge.

So since I already had the pattern and fabric for a corset, since I tended to do one later. I decided that it was necessary to make a corset. I can't go out with a beautiful bustle dress with a badly fitting corset now, could I?

 So after tracing and alterating the pattern, following the clear instructions by Truly Victorian, I made a fitting corset of canvas. The pattern is wonderful as it also gives a way to fit a mock corset without having to bone and lace it. I had to alter a small thing, which was easily done.

Tonight I intended to simply sew in the busk and do the rest later. A couple of hours later I have a near complete corset where I just have to sew the boning channels, add the bones and finish with bias.

I made pictures, but somehow they aren't recognized. I will update this post later with pictures.

Also check my Facebook Page for short updates through the projects: https://www.facebook.com/chaosroyalcreations

Edit for pictures:

Victorian Undergarments: Drawers complete

So after finishing the chemise I started on the matching drawers.

The pattern I used, Truly Victorian TV102, is really clear. The drawers are a little more complex than the chemise and have therefore more instructions, but these are clear.

So after a few days work I was ready to attach the waistband only to found out I had 2 left legs in the literal sense. So after a little seamripping I quickly made the right leg... pun intended.

For both the chemise and the drawers I used cotton with cotton trim.

The front is partly closed. Only the first 10 inches or so are sewn together. The rest is open for an easy access to your bum. 

 The back side. You can see that the backside is open and tied with the ribbon. For the picture I pushed the parts a little away to show the open, but it quickly falls closed again. I doubt you'll see my butt if I would only wear the undergarments. 

 

Detail of the legband and trim. I debated early on if I wanted to make the leg band of lace or some embroidered cotton. However since probally nobody is going to see it and I do have a deadline I didn't do that. Perhaps one day I'll make some fancy drawers with embroidery and frills. 

Victorian Undergarments: Chemise finished

So I bought fabric and trim on wednesday. My brother bought some lace and ribbon yesterday and I finished the chemise yesterday evening. I'm really happy with it. 

The pattern is really simple and has very clear instructions. Of course it's a simple garment. It's not lined but just a plain garment. 

I haven't hemmed it yet, since I might want to use the trim I used on the slim, but I will also need that trim for the drawers and I'm not sure if I have enough. 

The chemise is white cotton, with white trim and insertion lace. Currently it has a white ribbon in the insertion lace, but I intend to match the ribbon with the corset I'll wear. 

Detail shot of the sleeve. The insertion lace is kind of basic, but it's the only one they had at the store. It kind of suits a chemise.

Victorian Undergarments: Beginnings

Since the gamura isn't meant for a specific event (and most likely won't be worn before next year) that project is on hold. In the meantime I'm starting a new project.

Victorian Undergarments

I love Victorian dresses. Mostly bustle dresses. They have something sophisticated and also sexy. Also they are very versatile. A different bodice, overskirt or underskirt makes for very different combinations.
Since I expect I'll be making more Victorian Bustledresses I want to make a complete undergarment set.

This will consist of the following:

Chemise and drawers

 I will make these in some fine nice linen.

Corset

A linen corset. I don't know what I'll use for the fashion fabric. 

Corset cover

Again linen or cotton with lace. 

Bustle

I made one before, but want to make a new one since the other one has some flaws. 

Petticoats

Since the bustle is within the petticoat separate petticoats aren't necessary. However it will give some extra volume. I like big butts I cannot lie. 

Gamurra: First steps

So after making a third bodice mock-up that I was happy with I got my fabric last week. After washing, drying and ironing my silk I bought new fabric scissors last Saturday. Not just scissors, but also golden trim, gold metallic thread for said trim and decorative stitches and thread for the turquoise fabric.

What started out as just cutting the pieces ended up in a nearly finished bodice. Still needs to be trimmed and properly ironed at this point. Also need eyelets for the lacing in the back, but that will be after the trim has been added.

The photo doesn't do the colour justice. It's blue, but sometimes green and I love how it looks with the golden color. The trim is slightly more golden yellow, so that adds some depth to the garment. I still want to make some small alterations to the bodice, mostly in the back so the fit is even better and it's easier to dress. 

The skirt pieces are also sewn together and I finished the seams. I want to do big boxpleats with more trims in the middle of the pleats. I'm debating where I will put the skirt. Right now the bodice is for the skirt to start at the hip. I kinda want to lift it up a bit so it starts just below my breasts like it does on this picture: 

Will pleat the skirt on a band so I can see how it will look like by just pinning this band onto the bodice. 

Gamurra: mock up done

I finished the square necked chemise and 2 different bodices.  They're all just mock-ups. For the right look and feel.

Picture time:

Finished chemise: 

Finished high bodice: 
After this bodice I tried it on and found out that my tailoring dummy is bigger than myself. I had to buy another one and adjust the next bodice for my own fit. Luckily this was easily done.

Finished low bodice: It's View VIII on the pattern. On the new dummy so it fits better.

I kinda like the look with the lower cleavage. But I think I'm going to alter the patterns to make a more half breasted look. So a third bodice will be made.


In other news! I also have a facebook group where I will update on a more regular basis. Also with smaller updates.

Camicia: Mock-up sort of finished

So today I had some time to kill and decided to work on the camicia mock-up. It's almost finished. Just need to press the seams and hem the underside. Perhaps, because it is a mock-up meant for fitting beneath the gamurra I won't hem it. Nobody will see it. It will be our little secret.

But pictures:

The camicia without sleeves and facing. And my closet at the back! 

 

With sleeves but without facing:

 

And finished. You can see the facing shining through, but that's okay. It's meant as an undergarment. 

 

Details for fun: