Thursday, May 12, 2016

Robe a la Francaise: Petticoat and skirt

Cotton Petticoat



Using Buttericks 4484 pattern I made the petticoat. This is a simple petticoat made of unbleached cotton twill. This won't be visible, but adds an extra layer to hide the bones of the pannier.

I first tried cartridge pleats, but I didn't really like the look of it. So I just made the boxpleats the pattern instructs. 

I added an extra panel (since I made extra wide panniers, but this wasn't necessary. I had to remove it again. It added to much bulk at the waistband.


Skirt

After the petticoat I could start on the skirt. I used Simplicity 3637 for the petticoat. Most petticoat patterns are like the cotton petticoat. I however really liked the petticoat I made a few years back using the Simplicity pattern. So after buying this out of print pattern on Ebay I started making the pattern. First in the golden silk as the basis: 


 After ironing and finishing the hem I pinned the lace on it. I wanted the lace to be one piece, so I couldn't just cut it out. I had to pin the lace from the hem to the waistband in place. Time consuming work and after that I had to put everything flat on the floor and straighten it out.

Luckily I only had to do one side, since the back will be just a plain yellow cotton. Historically accurate and cost effective. After the lace was attached I could finish the skirt.

The opening on the sides.This will allow me to reach through the layers into my pockets.  

And the closing. This is the front (that closes in the back :P) The back closes the same way (but in the front).