Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Wintercoat: Let the sewing begin! Also Tailor's dummy

Wintercoat

I took a few days of to work on the Wintercoat. I made much more progress than I anticipated.
I didn't work a full day on it yesterday nor today and it's almost finished. Please forgive me for the quality of the pictures. I made them with my phone.

Yesterday I cut the fabric pieces and sewed it on the batting an lining. On the picture you see the 2 sleeve parts. Since my back was hurting from sitting on the floor cutting pieces before sitting hunched over behind the sewing machine and my dad came home I thought that was enough of the day. 

However after dinner my parents went to the neighbours and I decided to continue the coat. I ended up sewing all the bodice parts together but stopped when my parents came back. On the picture you can see the unfinished bodice. It looks like I lined up the print, but I didn't. Just a happy accident.


The first day I could see a lot of progress, but today was a finishing seams day.  On the picture below you can see the inside of the coat with 2 finished seams and 2 unfinished ones. I left the seams quite stiff so they work as a kind of flexible boning and will form on my body.

I also sewed and finished the sleeves, but I haven't got pictures of that.

Tomorrow I will go to the market to buy buttons for the coat. I also need to decide on the storm collar from the pattern or if I will make a hood for it. Since I have plenty of fabric for both I will make both. Perhaps I can make them interchangeable so I can alternate. At the very least I can pin them on the semi finished coat and see which one I prefer.

If all things go as planned I might be able to finish the Wintercoat tomorrow or at the latest this weekend.

Tailor's Dummy

I also bought a Tailor's Dummy for my sewing online. The store said they would deliver it the next day so hopefully I will have him tomorrow. It would be easier to finish the hem of the coat. It is also essential for the making of the crinoline. I also think it would help me a lot in my sewing. 


Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Crinoline and Fairy Queen: small update

Crinoline

Awhile ago I told you guys I was going to make a Crinoline in this post. Before I focussed on the Winter Coat.

I bought almost all the necessary fabric, hoop wire and ribbons for it. Still need to have a closing mechanisme for it, but those are easily obtained on the market (either local or Albert Cuyp) and the shop in my hometown.

I already cut the bags but still need to sew it before making the hoops and stuff. Kind of excited about it.

Fairy Costume

For the next Elf Fantasy Fair in April I'm going to make a Fairy Queen costume. I hope it will be awesome! 

For this I'm going to use above mentioned Crinoline. 


This top in white, silver and either pink or blue hues, perhaps with beading and shinies!: 

And this skirt in above mentioned colours. Off course with loads of organza and shiny fabrics in different colours, making a sort of gradient: 

I also intend to make a crown and wings. But I haven't figured those out yet so I will keep you updated about that. 

I'm still debating the main colour. I like the pink because it's fairy like and girly and OMG! COTTON CANDY IN YOU FACE!
But I like how blue looks on me. So tell  me your views! 

Monday, November 11, 2013

Wintercoat: Lining and stuff


So this weekend I didn't spend as much time as I thought I would on the coat. I cut the lining though.
I forgot that I really needed to re-cut the body pieces, since the sleeves are fine from before. So I cut the inner sleeves twice (or fourths (I have no idea. It's 4 pieces instead of 2 though. You know what I mean)). But this made me think...
Perhaps if there's enough fabric left I should cut all the pieces dubble (or 4x) so I can put the batting between 2 lining fabric layers. So it will be:

Fashion Fabric
Lining Fabric
Batting
Lining Fabric


Also I picked  up a sewing machine yesterday. It's a nice sturdy machine with lots of different stitches. I haven't tried it yet, but I will soon.

Also picked up thread and locking thread at the market. Still need to buy buttons, but haven't seen nice ones in the vicinity. Might have to go to Albert Cuyp to get those. Still not sure what kind of buttons I want too, so there's that.

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Winter coat: Pockets, hoods and a funeral


Funeral

So last Saturday I brought my sewing machine to the repair shop. Tuesday I got a call that my machine can't be fixed. The part needed to be replaced isn't being made any more and so it's deceased. I'm kinda bummed because it was a nice machine.
Luckily I had plenty of others for replacement machines. I was already planning to buy a new one in the future so these plans are just moved forward a bit. In the meantime I've got offers to loan a machine or buy them for a steal. This Sunday my mother and I will pick one of these machines up in return for a home-made apple pie.  Nice deal!

Pockets and hoods

With the rain we been having lately it made me realise the winter coat hasn't got any pockets or a hood. Things I really need, since it's one of the reasons I don't wear another similar style coat because of it (and the fact that it keeps losing it's buttons). So I looked up what to do.

For the pockets I tried doing a similar method that I used on a previous pattern, but I would have the coat pattern quite a bit for it to work. I then looked for other methods. I have only made pockets once and that method wasn't going to work. Luckily the internet helped me. So I'm going to make a Welt pocket with a flap using this method. Off course with everything I'm going to test it first on the prototype coat.

I had some hood patterns with my cloak patterns which can be used for the coat according to stuff other people said with minimal corrections. I'm also going to make a little hair comb on the inside of the hood. This way I can clip this in my hair keeping the hood in place when it's windy instead of holding it with my hands and rain coming into my sleeves. 

Monday, November 4, 2013

Wintercoat: recutting patterns again, hood, pockets and a sewing hospital visit.


So, yesterday I sat down to cut out fabric pieces. With the hiplength Size E (Before had size C) patterns I had already cut the lining and now I was sitting down to cut the fashion fabric.
However I had doubts about the hip length. My current coat is thigh length and I love how in rainy weather it keeps my ass dry and warm. The hip length wouldn't cover my butt when sitting down or on my bike.
But I wasn't really sure yet.
So I decided to not do the lazy thing, but the smart thing. Namely recutting patterns in hip length and size E and then see how it looks in thigh length. It's easier to shorten the coat when it's almost done than lengthen it.
This means however I also have to recut the lining pieces, but I have plenty leftover fabric. I don't have that much extra fashion fabric for budget reasons. The lining was EUR 1,- per metre and the fashion fabric was EUR 16 per metre.

Than later that evening it started to rain and it made me realize (with the twisted and winding roads my  mind makes) that this coat won't have a hood or pockets. The very reason I'm not wearing another similiar style coat in bad weather. So I put on the prototype and started to see if pockets could be made. It's possible, but I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do it.
I made a coat with pockets once so I'm trying to see if I can use the same method. I'm gonna try with some leftover fabric I have.

Also having to figure out how I'm going to make a hood on the coat. I have some hooded cloak patters which has nice hoods that I can adapt. Problem is... I can't find those patterns. I have almost all my patterns in a bag, but these cloaks are one of my first bought patterns. I don't know where I put them. Otherwise I have to get one from the internet or perhaps try my hand at making one myself. Off course, also the hood will be made first in leftover fabric on the prototype. Hood might be so hard. I just hope I have enough fabric for it.

Saturday I brought my sewing machine to the shop to get fixed. With the Miss Hartigan Project my sewing machine stopped transporting my fabric. Keeping it in place. So I had to use a back up machine. This machine is fine, but it's not my Singer. So I hope they can fix it. An aquintance of my mother said it might be a simple thing to fix, but at the shop they said they would do their best. I know they always say this to protect themselfs, but still.

Still need locking thread for my lock machine though... So have to get to the shop saturday. Perhaps I can pick up my machine then. I hope so.

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Wintercoat: Recutting patterns, fixing sewing machine and altering lengths



So after my prototype I concluded that my coat had to be bigger for a better fit. It fitted a little snug when wearing a sweater underneath. Since it's a winter coat I need to wear it over layers of warm clothing. So I added a size for better fit and I also added a size because of the batting.
I added 10cm to the sleeves.

I also decided to use the shorter version of the pattern. With the prototype I used the 'Thigh length' but I thought this was too long so I used the Hip length right now. Gonna alter the prototype first to check if the length suits me better.

Also need to send my sewing machine away to get fixed. I have a spare one but this one doesn't work as well as my own. Luckily my father offered to drive me and my sewing machine to the shop, since my sewing machine weighs a ton and the nearest service point which fixes my sewing machine is in Zaandam.

Sunday, October 20, 2013

Wintercoat: Fabric and prototype update


So my lovely readers/watchers/followers/blog reading people,

I present to you the much anticipated fabric picture.


It's a bad cameraphone picture with flash, but you get an idea. The red is not as prominent as in this picture. But it's pretty and the black lining is taffeta which I bought at the market on discount.

With that being said I have made the prototype. I hadn't put the sleeves in, but just pinned it on the prototype, because I hate doing sleeves and I just had to get a general idea of fit and length for the sleeves.  Again a bad cameraphone picture.

I wore a shirt and a vest underneath since that's what I would normally wear. I also tried it with a thicker sweater and that was a little snug, so I'm going to make my coat one size bigger. Also because I have to take the batting and lining in account. Better make it a little too big and take it in here and there.I also have to lengthen the sleeves quite a bit. Almost 10 cm.

I'm pretty happy with it altogether. It's an easy pattern to sew together, perhaps I'll make more coats using this pattern :P

Well this week I'll be cutting my fabric pieces in a larger size. I have to do this for 3 different fabrics (fashion fabric, batting and lining) and I'm still debating adding another think layer between the fashion fabric and batting for adding warmth and water resisting to my coat.  Tell me what you think, my dearies.

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Wintercoat: small update

Just a small post without any pictures about the wintercoat.

I've received my batting (fiberfill) yesterday. It's a big box that doesn't weigh anything, but sits in the way. So I stored it in the shed waiting to be used.

I have also traced all the patterns in size C. Which was most like my sizes according to the size chart. I'm going to make a prototype for adjusting the sizes, because it won't fit at all places. I have some left over fabrics which will be nice to use for the prototype.

Friday night I can start cutting the prototype fabric pieces. I probably won't do this all in one night.I don't have a high, flat, large enough table, so I cut my pieces on the ground. After cutting a few pieces my legs, butt and back hate me.

Hopefully my fabric is ready for pick-up this Saturday. This way I can see if I think I need a stronger fabric between the layers to add warmth and toughness. I couldn't really determine this with just the small sample and the liningfabric without the batting.

My fashion fabric is really pretty. I forgot to take a picture at the market, but when it arrives I'll make pictures.


Monday, September 30, 2013

Wintercoat and crinoline.


Hey followers,

I have started a new project and hopefully I'll do a better job of keeping you informed of it. So here goes.

I'm actually starting 2 projects.

First off: Wintercoat

A stand alone project with no clear deadline, but hopefully I finish it before winter ends. I'm going to make a winter coat. For this I'm using patterns from Truly Victorian.
Namely Truly Victorian 1880s Late Bustle Coat

I'm going to make the right one with the collar of the right one. I have ordered the fashion fabric and wattine, since they didn't have it in stock at the market I went to. Hopefully I can pick it up next weekend.
I did buy the interfacing fabric for the inside. I'm still debating if I'm gonna use a fashion lining or just use the plain linnen fabric I bought. Perhaps when I have all my fabrics you're gonna help me decide?

This is the first time I'm going to make something that I can and will be using on a daily basis. So I can't cut corners and need to be precise. Because if I'm not happy with it I won't wear it.

So before I'm using the good fabrics I'm going to make a prototype to adjust the fit. I want it to fit snug and pretty, but also comfortable. Perhaps I'm going to add a removable hood for those days you just want a hood on your head.

Second: Crinoline

I'm going to make a crinoline. It's gonna be part of the project for the Elf Fantasy Fair in April 2014, but I'm going to name it separate since I might use it for a multitude of costumes. It will also be usable for dresses I already made. For this I'm using patterns from Truly Victorian. 
I like that it's big and plenty of hoops. Together with the bum roll I made for the Miss Hartigan dress it will look fabulous!

For this I have everything I need. I already cut the fabric, but still need to lock the fabric and sew the bag. I hope I have enough strength to cut the hoop wire. But we'll see. At least I bought plenty off it.

It's another first for me since I never made a crinoline and everybody tells me their a bitch to make. So tips are always appreciated.


Miss Hartigan finished results!

Dear lovely followers, 

It seems I totally forgot about keeping the progress about the Miss Hartigan Project. I'm so sorry! 
Good news is that I finished it and it was awesome! 

I'm fairly happy with it. Unfortunaly the colour was not really red, but more copper as you can see in the picture. This meant buying the lace for the sleeves was a bitch. It delayed me a lot and affected my morale. 

After my patient parents drove me to Utrecht I comprimes with a wide lace band which I stacked on top of each other to get the lacey effect. 
Also I didn't really like the fit around my cleavage. So I had to pin those to my bra so I wouldn't flash people. I still kinda like it. But I don't think I'm gonna wear it very often. 
I finished it before the deadline, but I'm not really happy with it. In part because hardly anyone recognized me. Despite me walking with the Tenth Doctor and Tardis. Here we are: 

My sister-in-law as Sexy Tardis
My Brother as Tenth Doctor 
Me as Miss Hartigan. 

Pictures by Zita who I'm not sure if she has a blogspot or a site I can link to for credits. 

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Miss Hartigan dress: Bodice prototype part 2

Sorry everyone for the late post. I didn't really felt like writing it, but I have worked on the dress some more.

Last time I promised pictures of the finished panel. Here you can see it stitched up to the side part. As you can see I have stitched the sides so the 'flaps' stayed down. It made the panel much easier to work with.





After this I just followed the instructions from the pattern. It was fairly easy. 

Here's a picture of the first and only fitting. Since it fit right away I didn't have to alter anything. I might allow a little more seam around my bust, but on the whole it fitter quite nicely.  
As you can see it doesn't really close that well but I have not put in all the hooks. Nor did I bother to hem and sleeve it. I might decide to put in a regular old zipper or buttons. Haven't really decided as of yet.

So this was Friday when I finished the protoype bodice. That night I went to check on my fabric order. Only to be horrified when I couldn't find my order. When searching the site I realized I never got an email confirming my order, just the email from Paypal that my payment was made.

Luckily after GREAT service from Phil at http://www.the-millshop-online.co.uk/ who responded quickly on my emails everything was straightened out and I received the silk yesterday(tuesday) afternoon.

Here's a picture of me, the prototype bodice on the left and the cut pieces of the skirt on the right.

It's a beautiful deep red colour and very sturdy fabric. I wanted to use the same fabric as the protoype for lining, but decided that lining wasn't necessary for the skirt. Although I still might line the bodice since it does need some extra thickness.

Hopefully I can show more pictures tomorrow.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Miss Hartigan Dress: Bodice Prototype 1

I knew this dress came with a few challenges. The first one was actually easier than I thought (Although I have yet to receive definitive proof that I succeeded, but in theory I have), the second one was just as challenging.

After cutting out all the pattern pieces I had to alter the neckline of the body. This was actually easier done, since the original pattern came with placement lines for fringe, which were an excellent indicator for where I wanted the neckline to go.

Next challenge was the panelling. The pattern has 4 panels, Front left, Side back, Back and Front Right, but the original shows that the front has 4 panels with the 2 centre ones having a sort of strips.

So I had to cut up the pattern to make from 1 panel, 2 panels.  You can see it below. The 2 left white pieces used to be one. There was a dart and from that I extended that line to the shoulder.You can see the original (albeit mirrored) pattern next to it.

Also look at the pretty fabric. Only 1 euro on the market.  It has similar texture to silk and some sort of sheen, so it will also give me a fairly accurate representation of the original is silk. What fabric I have left (I bought 10 mtr) will be used for lining.

On to the next challenge. The strips of fabric on the 2 front panels. I had found a site with clear descriptions with pictures with multiple ways to do it, but it went offline.
So I had to gather the memories of the things I read and saw and asked for some advice from my facebook friends to figure it out.
I decided to make strips about 3cm wide (although I'm thinking about going to about 4cm for the original). I did this by cutting strips of 6cm and folding them double, stitching it close and ironing it flat. Then sew them on the panel upside down, and press them back.

Then the helltask of putting them on the panel started. Halfway through I decided that for the original I would just sew them overlapping the right way (so I don't have to press them back). It's thinner and much less work. Since I have to do the 2 front panels and the back pannel this way I don't want to do more work when it looks the same.


I have one panel finished (after 6 hours of work) so I will do only one panel. With the prototype I didn't really bother with making it even and all, but I will do so with the real thing obviously.

Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the finished panel so you will see that tomorrow when I putting the bodice together.

My fabric hasn't arrived yet, nor have I received a shipping notice, but hopefully I'll get that soon. Since I plan to have the bodice finished this weekend.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

First project: Miss Hartigan from Doctor Who

I've been watching the show for a few years now and I've been wanting to homage the show just as long. When Miss Hartigan first showed up in her signature red dress I said I wanted the dress. Now my brother is also a big fan of the show and wants to dress up as The Doctor. I think it's wonderful and also started thinking about my own Doctor Who cosplay.
As the title suggests I'm going to dress up as Miss Hartigan.
I want to wear it at the Elf Fantasy Fair in Haarzuilens which is held in the Netherlands on 20 & 21 april.
Miss Hartigan
On the first day I want to wear just the dress and maybe the umbrella. Just plain old Miss Hartigan.The second day I will go as the Cyber King.Adding the crown and the black eyes.
The Cyber King
I will be altering the Simplicity pattern 3727.
Simplicity 3727
As you can see I have to alter the Neckline quite a bit. So I will alter the pattern and then use those to first make a prototype in a cheaper fabric. To improve the fit.
I bought my fabric at http://www.the-millshop-online.co.uk/ and I will be using Silk Dupion.
I intend to keep a progress on this blog.