Victorian Undergarments: Chemise finished

So I bought fabric and trim on wednesday. My brother bought some lace and ribbon yesterday and I finished the chemise yesterday evening. I'm really happy with it. 

The pattern is really simple and has very clear instructions. Of course it's a simple garment. It's not lined but just a plain garment. 

I haven't hemmed it yet, since I might want to use the trim I used on the slim, but I will also need that trim for the drawers and I'm not sure if I have enough. 

The chemise is white cotton, with white trim and insertion lace. Currently it has a white ribbon in the insertion lace, but I intend to match the ribbon with the corset I'll wear. 

Detail shot of the sleeve. The insertion lace is kind of basic, but it's the only one they had at the store. It kind of suits a chemise.

Victorian Undergarments: Beginnings

Since the gamura isn't meant for a specific event (and most likely won't be worn before next year) that project is on hold. In the meantime I'm starting a new project.

Victorian Undergarments

I love Victorian dresses. Mostly bustle dresses. They have something sophisticated and also sexy. Also they are very versatile. A different bodice, overskirt or underskirt makes for very different combinations.
Since I expect I'll be making more Victorian Bustledresses I want to make a complete undergarment set.

This will consist of the following:

Chemise and drawers

 I will make these in some fine nice linen.

Corset

A linen corset. I don't know what I'll use for the fashion fabric. 

Corset cover

Again linen or cotton with lace. 

Bustle

I made one before, but want to make a new one since the other one has some flaws. 

Petticoats

Since the bustle is within the petticoat separate petticoats aren't necessary. However it will give some extra volume. I like big butts I cannot lie. 

Gamurra: First steps

So after making a third bodice mock-up that I was happy with I got my fabric last week. After washing, drying and ironing my silk I bought new fabric scissors last Saturday. Not just scissors, but also golden trim, gold metallic thread for said trim and decorative stitches and thread for the turquoise fabric.

What started out as just cutting the pieces ended up in a nearly finished bodice. Still needs to be trimmed and properly ironed at this point. Also need eyelets for the lacing in the back, but that will be after the trim has been added.

The photo doesn't do the colour justice. It's blue, but sometimes green and I love how it looks with the golden color. The trim is slightly more golden yellow, so that adds some depth to the garment. I still want to make some small alterations to the bodice, mostly in the back so the fit is even better and it's easier to dress. 

The skirt pieces are also sewn together and I finished the seams. I want to do big boxpleats with more trims in the middle of the pleats. I'm debating where I will put the skirt. Right now the bodice is for the skirt to start at the hip. I kinda want to lift it up a bit so it starts just below my breasts like it does on this picture: 

Will pleat the skirt on a band so I can see how it will look like by just pinning this band onto the bodice. 

Gamurra: mock up done

I finished the square necked chemise and 2 different bodices.  They're all just mock-ups. For the right look and feel.

Picture time:

Finished chemise: 

Finished high bodice: 
After this bodice I tried it on and found out that my tailoring dummy is bigger than myself. I had to buy another one and adjust the next bodice for my own fit. Luckily this was easily done.

Finished low bodice: It's View VIII on the pattern. On the new dummy so it fits better.

I kinda like the look with the lower cleavage. But I think I'm going to alter the patterns to make a more half breasted look. So a third bodice will be made.


In other news! I also have a facebook group where I will update on a more regular basis. Also with smaller updates.

Camicia: Mock-up sort of finished

So today I had some time to kill and decided to work on the camicia mock-up. It's almost finished. Just need to press the seams and hem the underside. Perhaps, because it is a mock-up meant for fitting beneath the gamurra I won't hem it. Nobody will see it. It will be our little secret.

But pictures:

The camicia without sleeves and facing. And my closet at the back! 

 

With sleeves but without facing:

 

And finished. You can see the facing shining through, but that's okay. It's meant as an undergarment. 

 

Details for fun: 

Camicia: First steps

So yesterday I traced the pattern for the camicia and cut the fabric. I used the Cheesecloth, since I will be making a prototype first. I also decided to make the quare necked chemise from the patterns, instead of the round necked. Perhaps I will still make the round necked, depending on how it will look under the dress.

I've sewn the fronts together and will continue later with the rest. When it's all together I might thrown it over my Dummy to make some pictures.

Italian Renaisance Gown: Camicia fabric bought

Please let me know what you think. Suggestions and feedback is GREATLY appreciated. I am a learning seamstress so any tips are more than welcome.

 

 Camicia

 So today I went to the market for a quick fabric run. Hoping to find some fabric suitable for the Camicia. Luckily the stall I normally go to was there with plenty of sheer white fabrics (for curtains, but who cares). I debated getting a plain sheer white and a sheer white with some embroidered white hearts on it, but settled on the plain white fabric, since I'm not certain I want to have embroidering on the entire fabric.
It's a pretty light fabric and has the texture and sheerness I wanted. Organza has a lovely look, but is too shiny and more firm than the sleek fabric I have now.

I also bought an off white linen like fabric. He didn't have linen, but this fabric is slightly less thick. Since it was only an euro per metre I just bought a few metres. It will be a nice fabric for a prototype Camicia or the Gamurra.

Here's a picture. Linenish fabric on the left, sheer sleek fabric on the right.

Gamurra and Giornea fabric choices

I've ordered samples of Dupion Silk to see which colour I would be using for the dress itself.
 I can't really capture the colours well on my camera, so I used the shops tumbnail:

The Gamurra will be made of a Turqoise kind of colour.

 For contrast fabric on the Gamurra will be a golden colour.

The Giornea will be made of a contrasting red scarlet: Perhaps I'll also make an Emerald coloured Giornea, but that coloured didn't add contrast to the dress, but sort of blended in. It's a nice look, but 'safe'.

 

Please let me know what you think. Suggestions and feedback is GREATLY appreciated. I am a learning seamstress so any tips are more than welcome.